Tucked behind a pair of unassuming storefront doors in Fullerton lies some of the most inventive sushi in Orange County, I recently discovered. Specifically, Nikkei sushi, a sophisticated fusion, if you will, of Peruvian and Japanese culinary traditions with a rich history.
Akashiro is the brainchild of Diego Kanashiro and Richard Galla (both Peruvian-Japanese) and Manuel Tam (Peruvian-Chinese). They opened their inaugural eatery in November 2023. Nikkei cuisine originated from the Japanese diaspora where Japanese immigrants, or “Nikkei,” ingeniously adapted their culinary practices to their new home’s ingredients, incorporating elements like aji peppers and Peruvian corn.
The result, which can be found at this Harbor Boulevard spot, is a masterful synthesis of two cultures: think sashimi served with piquant, citrus-based sauce or sushi rolls brimming with Peruvian ingredients like fried shrimp and chalaquita.
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Arriving precisely at Akashiro’s 5 p.m. opening on a weekday, I secured a seat at the bar for a front-row view of the chefs in action. Eschewing the omakase, I perused the menu’s a la carte fare, which features an array of familiar dishes with Peruvian inflections.
My first dish, the Peruvian Ceviche, as suggested by my chef, was a stunning medley. The weighty and substantial bowl (aside: I adore heavy dishware) belied a delicate melange of thinly-sliced striped bass mingled with onions, cilantro, aji limo (a citrusy chili) and the welcome crunch of fried sweet potato. Peruvian corn and cancha completed the dish, all bathed in a spicy leche de tigre. What could have been a slapdash dish in lesser hands was, at the risk of exaggeration and without question, one of my favorite bites of the year.
Next came the Parmesan Hokkaido Scallops. These tender bivalves, imported from Japan, arrived on the half shell, slicked with a rich parmigiano-reggiano butter with lime and arare, or savory-sweet rice crackers.
Another highlight was the graceful Otoro (fatty bluefin belly) nigiri. Marinated in a special nikiri shoyu and topped with pickled wasabi, it proved perfectly fatty with just the right amount of savoriness. As the chef handed me the glistening pair, he shared that the Otoro hailed from Spain. This attention to detail, explaining each dish’s ingredients and origins, heightened the entire experience.
I also enjoyed the Hamachi Nin’niku, a visually striking horizontal plate of seared yellowtail studded with gently toasted garlic rubble, popped quinoa, yuzu and ponzu. This chorus line of Hamachi was given the star treatment with a red flower garnish that made the entire dish pop.
Lastly, I couldn’t resist the omakase dishes being served to the gentleman sporting a Dodgers cap next to me. My noisiness paid off: the chef granted my request to try the omakase menu’s uni tart. Why? Because it arrived in an exceedingly charming beveled glass jar shaped like a carousel. Lifting the lid revealed a small tart topped with a tongue of Spanish sea urchin, resting on a nubbly bed of cancha nuts. It was as delirious as it was delicious.
Guests who want the omakase menu can choose between the epic 16-course experience ($165) or the 10-piece nigiri one ($80).
Beverage-wise, Akashiro offers a selection of Peruvian sodas like Inca Kola and Maracuya, various Peruvian teas like hierba luisa and chrysanthemum and standard beverages like hot and cold green tea. They also offer such boozier options as sake, beer and wine.
The entire meal, including tip, came to just over $100. The attentive and gracious service merits applause and, along with the exciting Nikkei fare, a swift return visit.
Akashiro is open Tuesday through Sunday from 5 p.m. until 9:30 p.m.
Find it: 444 N Harbor Blvd, #104, Fullerton, 714-519-3597