“It was mayhem. The place was packed with lines out the door.”
That’s how professional snowboarder turned restaurateur Jordan Small, 31 years of age, described opening day of his first brick-and-mortar smashburger spot Small’s Smash Club in San Clemente. On the heels of successful concepts that got their starts as a homebound ideas during the pandemic, Small’s eatery began as a backyard operation in Huntington Beach by way of snowcapped mountaintops.
Growing up in Lake Forest, Small was all but born with a board strapped to his feet. “In my family, I have an older brother and older cousins who all skated. Everyone snowboarded or skated. That was kind of built into our family,” said Small. “Ever since I could walk, my dad was building us ramps in the garage”
With his early days a blur of skateboarding, rollerblading and surfing, he kicked around a soccer ball for a spell in high school, but it fell by the wayside in favor of the arguably cooler world of skating. “Coaches were not happy when I’d show up with broken arms from skating contests,” he laughed.
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Soon skateboarding led to its wintertime iteration as Small’s full time gig. “Skateboarding I could do every day, all the time, but snowboarding was so special. It was like, ‘All right, cool, we’re going to the mountains this weekend,’” he said. A chance encounter with the snowboard company Thirtytwo led to sponsorships and before he knew it, Small was living the dream as a pro snowboarder.
For roughly 15 years, Small carved out a living on the slopes. Unlike his peers, however, Small wasn’t stoked for competitions. His interests were in street snowboarding, where he would travel the globe filming videos. This creative approach he’d later bring to his next career jump.
In 2020, Small went from shredding powder to smoking meats and, eventually, smashing patties. Small was on a filming trip in Finland when the pandemic hit. Making his way back to the states on one of the last flights out of Finland shortly before everything shut down, he landed in Huntington Beach and, as fate would have it, a sponsorship with Traeger Grills. “They would send us free grills and free pellets,” he explained. With time on their hands and a trove of smokers, Small and his wife, Jordyn, started smoking meats.
“My wife said, ‘Let’s sell barbecue,’ so that’s how we started,” he said, which is how Small’s Barbecue was born, operating out of their backyard. He credits Heritage Barbecue in San Juan Capistrano and Heavy Handed in Los Angeles as inspirations. Posting a menu of their meaty fare on Instagram, Small’s budding operations proved a success during the early days of COVID, offering pulled pork, pork belly, burnt ends and chicken thighs. While he garnered a loyal following, the logistics of smoking and transporting meat for pop-ups proved exhausting. That’s when he pivoted to the smashburger realm.
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“One day, we just were like, ‘Let’s try a burger on our menu.’ And it crushed — everyone loved it,” he recalled. “So I thought, ‘You know what? I think this is a bit better. Let’s pivot to burgers.”
Small’s Smash Club, his namesake eatery along Camino De Los Mares, is Small’s ode to the humble smashburger, the burger format that has skyrocketed in popularity over the last few years — and with good reason. The format is simple yet exquisite; patties are pressed flat onto a griddle to create a thin patty with crispy, lacy edges, offering an easier (and tastier) hamburger.
“It’s just your simple smashburger: grilled onions, pickles and special sauce,” he said. But it’s the special sauce, he believes, is what separates a good smashburger from a great one. “Your sauce has to be really good,” he added, sharing only that the one at Small’s is mayo-based. As for the cheese? It is, of course, American cheese. “It’s a must for a burger,” said Small. Indeed. Cheddar splits and turns oily. Blue cheese turns nubby and tough. But American offers a distinct mouth feel in a burgher that seemingly highbrow fromages simply can’t provide.
He also sources his meat from Sterling Pacific Meat Company, an 80/20 chuck blend he selected after testing over 30 grinds. And the buns, as mandated by unwritten law, are plush Martin’s Potato Rolls, the go-to bun for aficionados.
In addition to said burgers, which run $9 for a single, $12 for a double and $15 for a triple, Small’s features beef tallow-fried french fries and onion rings for $4 and $6, respectively. Also on tap are a handful of local beers and natural wines.
The first-week success of Small’s Smash Club was a sweet surprise for a team that’s largely new to the restaurant world. “It’s been packed every day,” he said. “On Saturday at 10:30 we had a line waiting for us, and we opened at 11.” He credits part of their early success to his snowboarding following, which allows for choice cross-promotion. But in the end, it’s the burgers themselves that will keep people coming back.
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Located inside the site of a former TJ’s Woodfire Pizza, the space was a fortunate find. After a couple of years of hunting for the perfect spot, Small says he’s thrilled to be nestled away from the more congested downtown San Clemente strip. “We have parking, the bowling alley is coming, which is going to be massive for us,” he said. He says he also plans on hosting live music in the near future.
As for expansion? That’s the entrepreneurial dream, of course. “The big goal, our pipe dream is five locations in five years,” he revealed, saying he hopes to open venues along the coastal enclaves, as well as a Small’s Smash Club in his hometown of Lake Forest.
For now, however, the San Clemente location is where his focus remains; after all, with one young child and another one en route, familial access is now more important than ever to Small, who has lived in the seaside town for nearly five years. All the better to bring “good vibes, better burgers,” Small’s Smash Club’s mission statement, to South County.
Find it: 641 Camino de Los Mares, San Clemente